Passion, Science & the Art of Winemaking wit Riccardo Cotarella

‘Wine reflects the heart and soul of those who care for it.’

Riccardo Cotarella

Riccardo Cotarella, one of the most renowned Italian oenologists in the world, says that while winemaking requires passion and culture, science and experience are also needed. And now, with the impact of climate change, the fundamental role of science in the winemaking process is making a strong comeback.

Mr. Cotarella needs no introduction to the wine industry. He is one of the co-founders of the Famiglia Cotarella family estate, President of the Assoenology, the Association of Italian Winemakers, and a highly sought-after wine consultant, including for Antognolla’s vineyards.

“Wine is very representative of Italy, and any wine “made in Italy” immediately inspires trust and appetite for it. Wine is passion and culture, but science and experience are needed to create it. Starting from the early 2000s, climate change has brought about noticeable changes in the quality of wine. We now harvest wine three weeks before the usual period, since it is hotter, but despite this, we’ve been able to yield wines rich in sugars and tannins all thanks to our scientific approach. Here is where the fundamental role of science in winemaking returns.”

They say the best wine is the one you like the most. Accordingly, Mr. Cotarella explains that the perfect wine cannot exist in terms of taste because tastes are subjective and fluctuating. The way to evaluate wine is through science.

“In scientific terms, one can actually explain the positive qualities or shortcomings of a wine. Wine must be made with precision, and nothing can be left to chance. Maniacal attention should be paid to elements such as temperature and the use of selected yeasts, among others.”

He emphasises that, thanks to oenologists, winemaking has become an institutionalised profession which has resulted in innovation and in wine of the highest quality.

Mr. Cotarella explains that terroir – the combination of soil, exposure, and location – is one of the most important factors influencing wine quality. The winemaker’s task is to identify the characteristics of various regions’ terroir and express them through wine. He believes that Italy’s enduring wine tradition and future in winemaking is bright thanks to the soil’s rich biodiversity.

“Italy is incredibly diverse when it comes to grape varieties. Our grapes grow in a wide range of territories, and it is the territory that affects the final product. A truly good and timeless wine depends on its distinctiveness, and we are lucky here because no other country in the world is as rich in biodiversity as Italy is.”

As for Umbrian wines, he says, they are generally expressive and characterised by a beneficial climate.

“At Antognolla in particular, the soil, which is rich in clay, and the climate, which allows for vineyards to be shaped like terraces with perfect exposure to the sun, will bring about a final product that is well-structured and elegant”, says Mr. Cotarella.

Perhaps we are not all experts in the science of winemaking, but luckily for us, we can enjoy the culture of wine that guides Mr. Cotarella in his craft. “Wine is a source of culture and is the only ingredient in the food and beverage industry that has existed for millennia and that evolves with time.”

Guests of Antognolla Resort and Residences have an opportunity to explore Antognolla’s world of wine through various activities, from wine tasting classes at the Experience Centre, to exploring the estate’s vineyards and learning about the science and craft of grapevine plant care and organic wine production. 

Here’s to everlasting pleasure and ever-evolving science!